The thobe, a long, ankle-length robe with long sleeves, is a traditional garment worn across the Middle East and other parts of the world. With its simple, flowing silhouette, the thobe has been embraced in various regions and cultures, each adapting the garment to fit their distinct cultural, religious, and aesthetic preferences. From the Middle East to Africa and Southeast Asia, this timeless attire has different names, styles, and cultural significance.
1. Thobe in the Arabian Peninsula
The thobe (or thawb) is most commonly associated with the Arabian Peninsula, where it is widely worn by men in countries like Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, and Qatar. The traditional Arabian thobe is usually white, symbolizing purity and offering comfort in the hot desert climate. However, during the cooler months, darker colors like gray, brown, and navy are often chosen.
Each region has its unique twist on the thobe. For instance, the Saudi thobe is typically snug, with a stiff collar and cufflinks, reflecting a sophisticated, structured style. In the UAE, the kandura (another name for thobe) has a more relaxed fit and often features a tassel called tarboosh on the front of the neckline, which is dipped in perfume for added elegance.
2. Dishdasha in Kuwait and Oman
In Kuwait, the thobe is often referred to as the dishdasha. It closely resembles the Saudi thobe but usually has a looser fit and a more casual feel. Omani men also wear a version called the dishdasha, which is usually plain white or pastel-colored, with a special tassel known as furakha on the neckline. This tassel is not only decorative but is also dipped in perfume for fragrance, making it both a practical and stylish addition.
3. Jubba in Turkey and Pakistan
In Turkey, the thobe takes on the name jubba or jubbah, and it is often worn by religious scholars and Imams. The Turkish jubba is typically darker and made of thicker fabric to withstand the cooler climates. It is less tailored than the Arabian thobe, designed for practicality and warmth, often worn with a matching turban or cap.
In Pakistan, the jubba is also worn, especially for religious purposes, though it’s styled differently and may include embroidery along the neckline and cuffs. It is often seen in shades of black, white, and beige, offering a more ornate design in keeping with South Asian aesthetics.
4. Kanzu in East Africa
In East African countries like Tanzania, Uganda, and Kenya, the traditional thobe is referred to as the kanzu. Brought over by Arab traders centuries ago, the kanzu has since become a cultural staple, especially in Muslim communities. The kanzu is typically white or cream-colored and is often made from silk or cotton. Unlike the stiff-collared thobes in Arabia, the kanzu is usually collarless and loose-fitting, better suited to the warm East African climate.
During important events like weddings, a kanzu is paired with a bisht (a traditional cloak) or a blazer, adding a touch of formality and elegance. In Uganda, the kanzu is a part of the groom's wedding attire, highlighting its significance in East African tradition.
5. Boubou in West Africa
In West Africa, the closest equivalent to the thobe is the boubou, a flowing robe worn by both men and women in countries like Nigeria, Senegal, and Mali. Unlike the Middle Eastern thobe, the boubou is more colorful and elaborately decorated. It is often made from luxurious fabrics like brocade and features intricate embroidery around the neckline, cuffs, and sometimes along the hem.
The boubou is usually worn over a matching pair of trousers and shirt, creating a layered look that is distinct to West African attire. Although it serves a similar function as the thobe, the boubou reflects the vibrant colors, patterns, and cultural pride of the West African region.
6. Kurta in South Asia
In South Asian countries like India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, the closest version of the thobe is the kurta, a long tunic traditionally worn with loose-fitting trousers or pajama-style pants. The kurta is usually more fitted than the Middle Eastern thobe and is often adorned with embroidery, especially for festive occasions.
Unlike the plain, monochromatic styles seen in the Arabian Peninsula, the kurta is commonly available in bright colors and intricate designs, reflecting South Asia’s diverse artistic heritage. The kurta is also worn by both men and women and has become a popular choice for religious events, weddings, and everyday wear.
Conclusion
While the thobe takes on various names and styles depending on the culture, its essence remains the same: a timeless, modest garment that connects different parts of the world. From the Arabian thobe and East African kanzu to the West African boubou and South Asian kurta, each version reflects the values, traditions, and aesthetic preferences of its region. Despite these differences, the thobe in all its forms remains a powerful symbol of heritage and unity across cultures.